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words & images by Rick Wilson, www.maisonblanche.co.uk
Tucked away in the beautiful countryside, just about 30 miles from the hallowed Le Mans 24 Hours circuit, is a truly magnificent secret.  
The Chateau de la Barre has been in the hands of the Vanssay family since 1421 and is situated right on the route of the 1906 Grand Prix held near Le Mans on what is now the "D1" road between St.Calais and La Ferte Bernard.
From the moment you turn off the main road, you pass "La Barre" itself, which is a small toll house (la barre, hence the name). As you wind down the narrow track towards the Chateau, it is almost as if any sense of time is pleasantly fading away. You could almost be travelling by real horse power, not the mechanical variety as without your modern reference point, you could be at any moment in the last few hundred years, such is the beauty with which the Chateau has been lovingly maintained. The Chateau has history stretching back many centuries, even surviving the French Revolution intact and the period feel is superbly maintained on the interior too. But the Chateau is so much more than a snapshot of history, Guy and Marnie de Vanssay have turned this splendid family residence into the ultimate place to stay too. With 100 acres of stunning walks and woodland, this is surely the perfect way to escape from the modern way of living and live the life of luxury and relaxation of years gone by. I had the great fortune of being invited to stay by Guy and Marnie to sample their hospitality during the Le Mans preliminary testing weekend in May 2003.  All the bedrooms and suites give a fantastic glimpse into the past but with just the right concessions to modern living. So much so that many of the top teams have chosen the Chateau de la Barre for their stay during race week, including Mercedes, Ascari, Cadillac and Audi UK in recent years.  A certain Mr. Pescarolo has even been known to experience the exquisite cuisine and unsurpassable array of wines. Guy is not only the most knowledgeable person on wines that I have ever had the pleasure to meet, he is also a Le Mans enthusiast of epic proportions. My hosts' attention to detail was superb, the food exquisite and the surroundings outstanding. I felt more than welcome, to the extent that by the end of my all too brief stay, it felt like I had known my hosts for years, not hours.  After a long day in the pit lane before the following day's track action, I arrived at the Chateau ready for relaxation and was greeted by my hosts, already in awe at my surroundings. Showing me to my room, Guy did offer the comforting words "don't worry, all the ghosts are friendly"! Everything about the room was perfect, the atmosphere, the decor and the facilities. The bed was apparently genuine 18th century, although I was assured that the mattress was somewhat newer! Once settled in and having availed myself of the wonderfully powerful shower (one of those modern concessions that I just can't live without), I embarked on a pre-dinner stroll around the grounds, discovering remains of ancient fortification and a wonderful freshness in the air that only comes from being away from the hustle and bustle. I could have walked for hours, but the earlier promise of a glass of Scotland's finest drew me back to the Chateau. After a dining experience the likes of which I have rarely experienced, with each course accompanied by its own perfectly complimenting wine from the impressive cellars of the Chateau, our hosts, fellow guests and I retired to the sitting room, very spacious and comfortable, and filled with huge portraits of family members of ages past. I really did feel like a member of the aristocracy for a night. When finally we did retire for the night, I bid my fellows farewell as I knew I would be away to the circuit too early for them and returned to my room, mindful that even friendly ghosts might prevent my much-needed slumber. Thankfully, the days exertions coupled with the fine wines, food and malt, not to mention the fresh air, all gently eased me off into a wonderfully relaxing sleep to awaken refreshed and ready for a full day's track action the following day. To Guy and Marnie, I would like to say a huge "thank you" .. to anyone reading this and contemplating a special place to stay in the heart of France, I cannot recommend highly enough what an experience staying at the Chateau de la Barre is.  As I slowly drove back up the driveway that morning, I had a real feeling of regret that I would not be returning later that day, but vowed to return again many times in the future. For more on the Chateau de la Barre, including history, details of rooms, many more photos and surprisingly affordable pricing, please visit the website at http://chateaudelabarre.com. via e-mail at info@chateaudelabarre.com or telephone on 00 33 (0)2 43 35 00 17 |
